Production

Production

Junior tannery pays special attention to the production field, representing today one of the rare Italian and foreign realities to do complete cycle work. For Junior tannery, sustainability represents the only way to look into the future. Thus its company strategy emphasizes environmental friendliness and workforce health. Junior tannery’s productive system presents different stages.

RIVIERA
TANNAGE AND RETANNAGE
DRYING AND FINISHING
MEASUREMENT AND TESTING

RIVIERA

The first stage is to prepare the leather for tanning. Hides, raw when delivered to the tannery, undergo various preliminary treatments. They prepare them to receive the tanning substances: from eliminating the salt and collecting subcutaneous fat to soaking (to rehydrate, cleanse, and resolve part of the globular proteins); hair removal, calcination done in the drums (to relax the skin and regenerate the hide’s fibers); fleshing (to clear the hides from fat and part of the subcutaneous tissue), splitting to unform to unform the hide’s thickness and get it ready for further processing).

TANNAGE AND RETANNAGE

The first part of this stage includes processes carried out in drums. Deliming(to reduce hide’s swelling by removing overlime and easing the absorption of tanning agents) soaking (to improve fibers’ opening), pickling(to bring hides pH to acid values to promote tanning substances’ action), tannage (to make the hides non-perishable, to confer resistance to acids, alkali, and water, to give hydrothermal resistance and enhance mechanic characteristics). Depending on their appearance, hides are divided into “wet blue”, a coloration given by the use of chrome, and “wet white”, if tanned without chrome. Before moving forward to the next stage, hides undergo operations that prepare them for retannage pressing (compressing the hides aiming to reduce their humidity rate), splitting(if not already split into pelt) to shaving (to give the hide a uniform thickness all over its area). Once the hides are tanned they are put once more in the drums and can receive more processing. Retannage(to enhance hide’s texture granting specific physical properties), dyeing (to give the hides the required color), fatting (to give hides fullness, softness, and improve some aspects like tear-resistance).

DRYING AND FINISHING

Before proceeding with drying, takes place the set-out that allows the removal of excess water and folds. After this treatment, dyed hides are dried using various methods, depending on the requested final product’s characteristics (vacuum drying, air drying, and drying on frame). Once the hides are dry, they are staked. The stake machine is used to soften hides through stretching procedures. Dry and staked hides are said “crust hides”. Now follows the finishing stage, including a series of mechanic processes and superficial chemical treatments whose purpose is to ennoble the leather’s appearance and protect its surface. The order of these treatments may vary depending on the finished product’s required characteristics. Buffing (to remove flaws and obtain a velvety effect); spraying of products such as dyes, resins, and waxes (to give some particular aesthetic effects); fulling (to accomplish softer leather through dry drumming); and ironing (to define the leather’s level of brilliance).

MEASUREMENT AND TESTING

Before moving forward to the measurement stage, the qualified staff selects the leather following detailed criteria established with the client. The leather’s surface is measured and recorded, using a tag, on its flesh side Leaning on analysis laboratories, equipped with vanguard equipment, is the final step of Junior tannery’s productive cycle. It grants the analysis of each batch to check performance requirements claimed during the productive process; specific tests for the footwear, leather goods, and saddle sectors observing European and international normative; inspections of the chemical’s requirements; interactions and collaborations with experts from the product development and production process innovation research department.